With meat on the menu, is it the end of the fish-and-chip shop as we know it?

Fresh from the ocean into the iconic chip shop paper, fish sourced from Queensland waters offers locals and tourists a beloved coastal classic. 

But the twin headwinds of dwindling supply and rising industry costs are threatening the viability of some local fish and chip shops.

To combat industry pressures from commercial fishing bans and the cost-of-living crisis, some businesses have resorted to diversifying their menus to include non-seafood dishes.

Seafood restaurant Fish D’vine, situated on the bustling, palm tree-lined main strip at Airlie Beach, just metres from the coastline, is already testing the waters.

‘The fish and chip shop with no fish’

After operating for 20 years, Fish D’vine owner Kevin Collins has resorted to incorporating meat in his menu, saying holding on to the title of being a specialist fish restaurant has now become impossible.

“Now what we’re faced with is fish-farmed barramundi and salmon, and they’re about the only two fish we can guarantee supply, and I hate having to do that,” he said.

“We’re introducing lamb, pork belly, chicken, and beef … traditionally we haven’t gone there because we’re so proud of our fish.

“Very few people will come to the Whitsundays without an expectation of eating Whitsunday seafood while they’re on holidays here, because everyone knows how beautiful it is, but unfortunately the future is going to make it very difficult to meet expectations.”

Natalie Fitzgerald from Debbie’s Seafood in Mackay said her family business’s claim to fame had been its daily selection of fish for consumers to choose from.

Ms Fitzgerald said the reduction of fresh, local seafood from the fishing regulation changes, particularly the gillnet ban in Queensland, was turning her business into a cafe, rather than a fish and chip shop.

“It’ll be more coffees, sandwiches, wraps, salads, then there might be one type of fish and chips on the specials board for the day,” she said.

“There might be a steak burger, or curry, but it’s just not going to be fish and chips like it’s always been.”

Ms Fitzgerald said the business was facing more than just supply issues.

She said the increased cost of living had resulted in staff shortages and forced the business to close its doors on Friday nights, signalling the end of “Friday night fish and chips”.

“Most fish will have gone up between $5 and $15 this year, because of all those little hidden expenses that you just don’t realise go into getting a piece of fish filleted,” she said.

Not just a Queensland problem

WA Fishing Industry Council CEO Darryl Hockey said he had heard similar sentiments from seafood business owners in Western Australia.

“In Broome, the Kimberley marine parks have been put in and that has taken away huge areas of productive waters, particularly for the barramundi fishery,” Mr Hockey said.

“All of the barramundi caught in the Kimberley were always consumed by tourists, so there was an expectation from people who went on holiday there that they could try some of the local fish.

“Now we’re getting reports that some of the restaurants are importing their fish from South Australia, because they just simply can’t get enough local fish to meet demand.”

Tasmania’s seafood industry is keeping a close eye on potential issues that could affect future supply, although stocks were strong for now, Seafood Industry Tasmania CEO Julian Harrington said.

“There are continuous changes to the rules and regulations around the seafood industry here in Tasmania, and like other states we have some challenges or discussions with the recreational sector around resource sharing,” Mr Harrington said.

“We’ve got oil and gas wanting access to space, we’ve got Commonwealth marine park networks in the south east being reviewed, so all these things are challenges for our industry, but at the moment production is strong.”