In winter 2016 I met Emily Jackson in Paris via a friend’s gathering and we immediately hit it off over many things, including both being native North Carolinians. Every time I’m back in the City of Lights I try to meet her for a delicious dinner or at the very least a cup of coffee at a hip cafe. I refer to her as the “real” Emily in Paris (FYI the new season is out August 15th) as she’s also in the marketing and creative field, so thought it was only natural to ask her for some insider spots to flee to during the Olympics for a few moments of peace and pleasure.
“In this week leading up to the opening ceremony, Paris is quiet — eerily so, reminiscent of COVID-19 with no traffic in many of the streets,” says Jackson, who notes there are clearly fewer visitors than anticipated and the restaurants are feeling it. In fact, some spots are even taking extended vacations because of the quietness. Jackson recommends checking the Google listing or social media account of any restaurants and bars you plan on visiting as they could very well close earlier than the August holiday period.
“That being said, this may be the best time ever to visit any Parisian institution that may be on your bucket list, as many might have more last-minute reservations open up or shorter lines than usual,” she adds. “The red zone is to be avoided as you need a QR code to pass through — and if you plan on moving about using public transport keep an eye out for deviations in the routes or closed stations where you can’t transfer,” she adds.
Now onto a few of Emily’s favorite spots to bookmark for your next Paris visit:
Camus Camus
54 rue d’Amsterdam 75009 (open all summer)
“Owned by a Canadian — who shares the bar’s name thanks to her father, a fan of the prolific French writer Albert Camus — this newly-opened wine bar next to the Google offices offers a great selection of natural wines and craft cocktails (both Camus’ favorites),” says Jackson. Natural wine and Asian-inspired tapas grace the menu. The kimcheese (a kimchi grilled cheese) is Emily’s go-to-order and she notes the spot occasionally has DJs, tastings, and many fun events. “It’s one of the few bars I’d drag myself across town for,” she adds.
Bar Principal
5 rue du Général Renault 75011 (open all summer)
If you’re looking for a place where natural wines, craft cocktails and small bites collide, this is it. “It’s fun with friends, especially before/after a dinner in the neighborhood and located next to a very cute park,” says Jackson. “I’ve had many a great night here just chatting and drinking and laughing with friends.” If you’re looking to hop around to a few places, she notes Furia and Brasserie Martin are a quick five-minute stroll from Bar Principal. Insider tip: arrive early for a table outside.
Bouche Paris
85 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud
“[Bouche is] one of my personal coups de coeur (crushes) of recent months,” says Jackson, who keeps returning for the food and the ambiance. The menu is seasonal and changes based on what’s available. For summer expect dishes like duck terrine with pistachios and hazelnuts and a divine lobster roll with raspberry “ketchup” and basil. “Everyone I’ve ever taken here has always been as blown away as I have,” she says. “The owners also just opened a second spot on the same street called Rori which I’m dying to try.”
Sister Midnight
4 rue Viollet le Duc 75009
“Piloted by the dynamic duo behind Red House in the 11th arrondissement, Jen Riley and Joe Boley, this bar is a fan favorite both for its stellar cocktails,” says Jackson. “They do switch up the menu so my favorite is no longer on it (a gin-based marvel called the Violet Chachki), but you’re guaranteed to find something you’ll enjoy,” she adds. It’s got all the ambiance too, like technicolor carnival lights, fringe lamps, and leopard print upholstery. “Plus, who doesn’t love a good drag night?,” she adds.
Pavillon Puebla
Ave. Darcel inside Parc des Buttes Chaumont, 75019
Far, far away from the Olympic madness, tucked away in the gorgeous Parc des Buttes-Chaumont sits an outdoor oasis called Pavillon Puebla. “This bucolic spot underwent a full renovation and reopened back in April,” Jackson says. “I love hanging out on their spacious terrace with friends and feeling like I’m not even in the city anymore.” She notes it’s perfect to fill the void of escaping the city without actually escaping the city, or to simply enjoy a sunny Parisian day.
Los Andes Coffee
3 rue de Crussol 75011 (closed 13-23 August)
“I’ve become a regular at this tiny Colombian-owned café, and not just for its super central location,” says Jackson. “Owner Diana knows her stuff when it comes to coffee and also stocks beans from small Colombian producers that you can’t find just anywhere.” Think regular coffee drinks plus cool Colombian-inspired drinks like the Lulo Fizz, made with the tangy, delicious lulo fruit from Colombia, which is one of Jackson’s favorites. They also ice everything. “They only have two tables so it’s not a place to spend the afternoon, but they have a bench outside and there’s a park in front of the nearby Cirque d’Hiver if you want to sit for a bit,” she says.