Redwoods is one of my favorite National Parks and it shares one aspect with my other favorites: otherworldliness. Being there really feels like you’ve been transported to another world, because there’s no other place like it on this one. Sure, there are forests elsewhere. There are even forests on coasts, but not like this. Coastal redwoods, the trees that give the park its name, are the tallest in the world.
You may have thought you’ve seen tall trees before. And maybe you have. The trees in Sequoia National Park, a related species, are definitely big. But while those are large, the redwoods are tall. Walking among these giants makes one feel as if the whole world had gotten larger.
The park itself has so much to offer, which is why it’s one of the best National Parks in California. Here’s what you should know before you go.
1) Trees!
When I’ve shared my enthusiasm for Redwoods, I’ve often been met by confusion. “Isn’t it just big trees?” Yes and no. These are trees unlike any you’ve ever seen. Significantly taller than normal trees, these are the tallest in the world. They’re so big they’re hard to photograph. Get far enough away to get the entire tree in frame, they seem small. Put someone next to them, and the person almost disappears.
It’s also more than just trees…
2) It’s not just big trees
The main attraction of the park is, of course, the mighty redwoods. However, much of the park extends to the coast, including beaches, rivers, tide pools, and lagoons. Keep in mind that the ocean here can be quite cold and is often unpredictable. This is coastline for exploring, not beach days. There are swimming holes and rivers nearby though.
Don’t expect to see the biggest redwoods near the beaches, however. They don’t like the salt water.
3) It’s not just one park
Redwoods National Park is technically Redwood National and State Parks which include Del Norte Coast Redwoods, Jedediah Smith Redwoods, and Prairie Creek Redwoods State Parks. Nearby are Humboldt Redwoods State Park, Klamath National Forest, Six Rivers National Forest, Trinity National Forest, and King Range National Conservation Area. Which is to say, the whole area has extensive national and state conservation areas. Because it’s a huge area, and many of the roads have strict speed limits, it can feel as huge as the trees within.
4) Forgotten and nearly hidden WWII history
Along the coast, near Klamath, are the remains of a bit of nearly-forgotten WWII history. Radar Station B-71 was once an early-warning radar and air defense station. Inside were the various electronics needed to run the radar, a generator for electricity, and anti-air weapons. Today only the over-built shells remain. Spooky-looking almost-houses with no windows and boarded-up doors. A cool spot for history buffs.
Getting to this spot requires you to pass High Bluff Overlook, which offers some incredible views south down the rocky coastline. On the other side of the same parking lot, a small trail descends down to another overlook that looks north. Once you’ve taken in those views, continue on and there’s a small pull-out where you can hike down to the houses.
5) The Forest Moon of Endor
Star Wars fans will remember the Ewoks from Return of the Jedi. The Forest Moon of Endor was shot in and around Redwoods National Park. Unfortunately, many of the areas used in the film were private lands that have now been forested. That said, just about any hike through the many forests here will make you feel like an Ewok or budding Jedi (or Imperial Scout Trooper, if that’s your thing).
Some of the speeder bike backgrounds were shot in Cheatham Grove, in Grizzly Creek State Park. The tree in the image at the top of this story can be seen 58:55 into the movie, which is where the above YouTube clip begins. The crossed trees in the image at the top of this section are at 59:30 in the movie, and 1:03 in the clip.
This is a helpful guide, though keep in mind it’s hard to find exact locations because there’s no cell service in Cheatham Groove. Download screenshots if you can!
6) For the kids
There’s a giant Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox. This roadside tourist trap is on the 101 north of Klamath. You can take photos for free, thankfully, and there are clean restrooms and a gift shop. The adjacent “Trees of Mystery” has an Ewok-style canopy walk, though I haven’t done it as there’s a fee (it’s not part of the park).
There are drive-through trees, but they’re all privately owned and require a fee.
7) Epic drives
The Avenue of the Giants is a gorgeous and leisurely drive that parallels U.S. Route 101 (aka “the 101” in my dialect) on a well-paved road with lots of pull-outs for parking. Depending on which way you’re approaching the park(s), it’s a great way to introduce yourself to the massive trees. There are some short hikes here as well.
Depending on your vehicle, the Avenue of the Titans is another stunning drive at the north end of the park, near Crescent City. It’s largely a single-lane dirt road, with many tight twists, endless ups and downs, and if it has been raining, mud. The massive redwoods often bracket the road. In other areas, the edge falls off to streams below. Do not attempt this in any size RV. There is no place to turn around if you can’t pass a section. Even Sprinter-sized campervans might have issues.
Just cruising up and down the 101 offers some stunning sights while going between different parts of the park. There are lots of additional drives, and routes like the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway parallel the 101 and offer an even better view.
8) Hikes galore
One of the most accessible hikes is through Lady Bird Johnson grove. It’s an easy walk, though occasionally muddy, and lets you marvel at some gorgeous trees. This tiny, and sometimes crowded, parking lot is actually the main reason I decided to go with a small van for my campervan build. Two years after my first visit, I returned with the van that lot inspired. Another easy one is the above-mentioned Cheatham Grove, which is also mostly flat.
There are any number of other short hikes accessible by small parking lots and pullouts along the 101 and adjacent roads. Definitely worth checking with a park ranger to see what they recommend for the time of year you’re visiting.
9) Wild, wildlife.
Elk live throughout the forests, and often come out to graze in some of the many meadows. The Appropriately named Elk Meadow north of Orick is a good place to stop.
Along some of the beaches you might see seals and maybe even sea lions.
10) Free!
Because of its location along a major road, and its multiple units and adjacent state parks, Redwoods is one of the few National Parks with no entrance fee. Certain specific areas in the park require reservations, which might have fees, and of course if you want to camp you’ll need to pay for a campsite. The majority of the park is free though.
There are still visitor’s centers, which are worth visiting for up-to-date info about the park, as well as ideas of what to do given the day’s weather and what’s accessible.
If you’re interested in more of my travel babblings, my book Budget Travel for Dummies is available everywhere including Amazon and Barnes & Noble.