How Fashion Entrepreneurs Are Leading The Shift To Sustainability

The fashion industry is frequently highlighted as one of the world’s biggest polluters, consuming vast amounts of water and generating billions of tons of waste. However, a new wave of entrepreneurs is taking on this challenge, aiming to reimagine the industry from the ground up with sustainability at the core. Yet, their success depends on more than just innovative ideas; it will ultimately require buy-in from major brands, consumers, and policymakers alike.

One such pioneer is Dustin White, who is working to make one of fashion’s most popular—and polluting—materials sustainable. White aims to transform denim by using microalgae, fermented in steel containers much like beer, as a carbon-negative alternative to the petroleum-based chemicals traditionally used in textiles. This fermented microalgae actively pulls carbon from the air, trapping it within oils that can be used to produce everything from denim jeans to vinyl records and even skateboard wheels.

Pioneering Sustainable Fashion

White’s commitment to sustainability also includes “digital colorization,” which significantly reduces dye waste and water consumption in denim manufacturing—one of the fashion industry’s most environmentally damaging sectors. A 2022 report by Oxfam reveals that the emissions produced from manufacturing the jeans owned by UK adults are equivalent to flying a plane around the globe 2,372 times or driving a petrol car over 21 billion miles. Another report shows that each pair of jeans carries a significant carbon footprint, releasing over 33 kilograms of CO2 across its lifecycle. That’s equivalent to the emissions from a round-trip flight from New York to Washington, DC.

White has a symbolic, yet strategic, motive for taking on the denim industry. He believes that denim’s cultural significance can inspire consumers to rally behind his new manufacturing process in a way that might be more challenging with other textiles. “It’s a product rooted in so much history, and there’s an authenticity to it,” he explains. “Some fear that moving too heavily in this direction could compromise that. But I think we’re starting to see change because we’re perfecting the look. Denim has three key components: its wearability, how it feels, and how it looks. If we can truly show that it’s possible to create a product that delivers on all three fronts while being more sustainable, that will catalyze the industry.”

However, White is not naive; he understands that transforming the industry will require more than just goodwill from consumers. Numerous studies, like this one from PWC, indicate there are limits to how much more consumers are willing to pay for sustainable products. Bringing in new technological processes, like those White proposes, will be critical for lowering costs and achieving widespread consumer adoption.

A key factor, according to White, is getting manufacturing mills on board. Yet, as he noted in a recent conversation, many mills are “coasting along” on investments made years ago and are hesitant to invest in new technology without assurance of a market beyond fashion startups and small-scale innovators. To shift this mindset, White believes that major denim brands “have to demand” change from their suppliers.

To this end, White spends considerable time on the phone with brands. Encouragingly, many are responding positively, inspired by proof that these new methods work. “It’s starting to happen,” he says, “and I think that gives us a lot of hope.” White points to Levi’s reduced water use as an example of brands adapting in response to growing consumer demand for sustainable options.

Equally promising is the rising interest from young designers entering the industry. White recalls a recent event at Parsons School of Design, where he noticed enthusiasm among students for regenerative design methods.* “Many feel torn between their love for fashion and its environmental impact,” he observes, yet these designers may be key drivers of change within the broader industry.

The Role of Policy in Advancing Sustainable Faction

Given the urgency of action required to shift the fashion industry towards greater sustainability, relying solely on industry innovation and self-interest is unlikely to achieve the necessary changes in time. Recent data from the Apparel Impact Institute indicates that fashion’s emissions could increase by 40% by 2030 without intervention. Government support and regulation will therefore be essential to accelerate industry-wide change and the adoption of regenerative manufacturing practices. “Without question, regulation and government support are key to driving a real transition,” White says, citing recent progress, such as Los Angeles’ upcoming ban on specific harmful chemicals by 2025, as a positive example.

Fashion environmentalist and policy entrepreneur Runa Ray, who has long campaigned for sustainable fashion policy, highlighted California’s Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 as a landmark step. “This legislation establishes Extended Producer Responsibility, requiring brands to take accountability for the full lifecycle of their products through repair, recycling, and reuse.” Ray called on other states, including New York, to follow California’s “powerful example” and to implement systems that prioritize sustainable production and waste reduction.

Fortunately, change is on the horizon. Proposed legislation like New York’s Fashion Act aims to hold fashion-related companies accountable by requiring science-based targets and public sustainability reporting. Given New York’s status as one of the world’s largest economies—and as a global fashion capital—the Act could have wide-reaching implications for brands and their suppliers. Michelle Gabriel, Graduate Program Director for Sustainable Fashion at Glasgow Caledonian New York College, has been instrumental in advancing the act, which made unprecedented progress in this year’s legislative session, although it ultimately stalled. At a recent event, Gabriel emphasized her commitment to driving the act forward next year, underscoring the need for continued support from partners. “Policy change is something we can all be part of,” she said.

New York State Assembly Member Anna Kelles, one of the bill’s leading co-sponsors, affirmed her commitment to the Fashion Act when contacted for comment: “The Fashion Act will continue to be my number one priority bill in the upcoming legislative session, and I have every reason to believe we will be successful in securing its passage next year,” Kelles said.

“There is a huge national and international coalition behind this legislation, from brands and manufacturers in the industry, to environmental advocates and champions, fashion influencers, and organized labor,” Kelles went on to note. “Given that the United States is the largest per capita consumer of trash fashion, and the largest per capita producer of trash fashion waste it is critical that we are at the table partnering with the rest of the developed world in creating global environmental regulation of the industry for the first time in history.”

Kelles also noted the importance of keeping pace with global standards, adding, “The European Union’s new standard on Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence has paved the way for the Fashion Act outlining parallel requirements of not just the fashion industry but all major industries doing business in the E.U. The Fashion Act is no longer a trailblazer piece of legislation but ensures the continued relevance and competitiveness of US brands on the global market.”

Kelle’s comments echo a point made by sustainable fashion advocates like Ray and White, who argue that brands are failing to adapt risk rising costs and market exclusion. Conversely, early adopters who invest in sustainable technology and infrastructure are poised to generate jobs, drive greener production practices, and gain a competitive edge long-term in the U.S.

A Growing Movement Towards Sustainable Fashion

The New York Fashion Act is just one of several policy initiatives gaining momentum in the quest for sustainable fashion. Ray, like White, incorporates algae into her work and advocates for sustainable fashion at venues like the UN, where she meets with diplomats to promote industry change. Thanks to advocates like her, initiatives like the UN Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action have driven increased commitments, with over 80% of signatory brands now publicly reporting on environmental progress. Signed-on brands targeting 100% renewable energy by 2030 rose from 18% to 42% between 2020 and 2022.

The long-term future of fashion in the U.S. ultimately hinges on leaders championing more regenerative practices. Entrepreneurs like White demonstrate that innovation within the industry is possible, but systemic policy support is critical for scaling these efforts. White also cautions that climate change is fast becoming an existential challenge for U.S. manufacturers, underscoring the urgency for urgent policy reform to mitigate its impacts including on their own assets. “We set up a facility in Tampa, and we were closed for two weeks because of hurricanes,” he recalls. “We saved the equipment, but the neighborhood was destroyed.” He contrasts this with conditions in California, where many textile buildings lack air conditioning, leading to extreme heat: “If you go downtown, most textile buildings have no air conditioning, and it’s getting incredibly hot,” he notes. “I’ve walked into production facilities where workers are just dripping in sweat.”

With up to 8% of global emissions linked to fashion production and vast water consumption—accounting for 20% of global wastewater and ranking as the second-largest water user—a new wave of policy entrepreneurs is rising to the task. As significant brands adopt eco-friendly practices, the U.S. fashion industry stands on the brink of systemic transformation, with the potential to make sustainability the new standard and maintain its global competitiveness. Time will tell if this new growing movement succeeds.

*Disclaimer: I participated in this panel on policy and regeneration with Dustin White at the Parsons School of Design