Vineyard, Grand Valley, western Colorado
During a recent trip within the U.S., the car’s GPS navigation system took me on an unexpected route between Albuquerque, New Mexico, and Basalt, Colorado. It steered me through a small town named Paonia in western Colorado, where I happened to have spent time—decades ago—as an intern for an environmental newspaper. Wanting to see this town again I veered in. Remembering that this region apparently now has a reputation for producing wine, I parked outside a wine and liquor store and purchased some bottles.
The owner recommended a wine from Paonia that—earlier this year—had gained statewide recognition. This Alfred Eames Cellars 2019 Carmena won top prize of a ‘double gold’ in the 2023 Governor’s Cup Wine Collection winners. I bought that bottle, as well as a bottle of Eames Pinot Noir, and looked forward to tasting both.
Peaks in West Elks wilderness, Colorado
According to the Colorado Wine Board, winemaking in the state began on the Western Slope (the 40% of the state located west of the Rocky Mountain ‘continental divide’) over a century ago, although vineyards were replaced with orchards during Prohibition. Wines here have traditionally been made not only from grapes but also from other fruits. Colorado vineyards generally constitute the highest elevations vineyards in North America at between 4,500 and 7,000 feet (1,370 and 2,100 meters) above sea level.
Located in the internal continental U.S., the state of Colorado has an average ground elevation of 6,800 feet (2,074 meters) above sea level, which is higher than the highest points in 36 of all 50 states of the U.S. In other words, grapes here must fare well at altitude.
Weber Ranch, Ridgway, Colorado
American Vititcultural Areas (AVAs) are designated by the federal Tax and Trade Bureau, which regulates the production of alcoholic beverages. There are two AVAs in Colorado—The Grand Valley AVA along the Colorado River, and The West Elks AVA. In the Grand Valley, vineyard elevations are between about 4,000 and 4,500 feet (1,200 and 1,400 meters) and the Colorado River moderates temperatures while river winds reduce humidity. The region gets as much sunshine as Napa Valley, Bordeaux or Tuscany—but in a shorter time. The similarities to the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains in Spain also makes this region favorable for the Tempranillo grape.
In the West Elks AVA, elevations of vineyards are generally between 5,400 and 7,000 feet (1,650 and 2,100 meters) above sea level, and there are fewer growing days—making the cooler region favorable for Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir.
Vineyard in Paonia Colorado
Besides these two AVAs, there are ample other wine growing regions in Colorado—including McElmo Canyon and Montezuma County, South Grand Mesa, Fremont Peak, Olathe and Montrose Counties and the Front Range.
In the town of Basalt in Colorado I had dinner with a friend at the Free Range Kitchen and Wine Bar, where owner Steve Humble opened a bottle of 2020 You Are Beautiful Pinot Noir from Buckel Family Wines. This included aromas of violets and strawberries and flavors of plums and raspberries with soft tannins and bright acidity. The wine was unexpectedly refreshing and well made, serving as a positive opening to sampling Colorado wines.
Colorado Pinot Noir
A week later in California, I opened the bottle of Alfred Eames Carmena with an Australian and American wine aficionado couple living in Santa Barbara. Both tasted it blindly, and considered it better than some of the more highly renowned European and American wines set before us.
Carmena is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Carmine grapes. Carmine is a cross betweeen Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carignan, and was created in 1946 by Doctor Olmos of the University of California as a cool coastal climate substitute for Cabernet Sauvignon. Carmine grapes produce a high tannin wine and are now grown along the east coast as well as in west coast regions of the U.S., as well as in the states of Michigan, Ohio and Colorado.
The visit was fast and the range of tastings was brief—but a few Colorado wines sampled shine with Rocky Mountain blue sky brilliance. Colorado is a wine region to monitor during the coming years.
Alfred Eames Cellars. Carmena. Colorado. 2019. 95 points.
This wine produced in Paonia, Colorado, is unfined, unfiltered and fermented in open vats before being barrel aged in French oak. Delicate raspberry aromas and flavors of red plums, black peppers, persimmons and red licorice. Slick acidity, low key tannins.
Alfred Eames Cellars Pinot Noir from Paonia, Colorado
Alfred Eames Cellars. Pinot Noir. Colorado. 2015. 93 – 94 points.
Unfined, unfiltered and fermented in open vats. Barrel aged in Frech oak. Aromas of red fruit such as raspberries as well as some gorse and tar. Delicate attack, raspberries mid palate and bright mint on the finish. A slightly tart but complex wine, somewhat dazzling with freshness and ripeness and subtle fruit flavors. Succulent acidity, soft and deft tannins. A subtle and seductive beauty. Pair with cheesecake, goat cheese or caviar.
