There’s a sense of nervous excitement in the air at Pooley Wines vineyard in the Coal River Valley near Hobart.
Harvest workers pluck heavy bunches from the vines, placing them carefully in overflowing buckets.
For vineyard manager Steve Ferguson, it’s a long-awaited scene after four years of below-average yields.
In Tasmania, the grape harvest typically begins in late February or early March and concludes in May. (ABC News: Sophie Jaggers)
“We’re up at least 50 per cent on last year. And probably 150 per cent on the year before that,” he said.
“We [harvested] a block last Friday and it was the biggest yield that’s come off that block in the history of the place.
“It’s gonna be a bumper year, and good wine.”
Mr Ferguson says one of the blocks on his vineyard produced its biggest yield yet. (ABC News: Sophie Jaggers)
A harvest four years in the making
Above-average yields are anticipated across the state this season — a vintage on a scale that growers and winemakers have not seen since 2020.
Viticulture and winemaking officer at Wine Tasmania, Paul Smart, said while it was still early in the harvest, yields and quality were looking positive.
“Those last four years that we were down in yields were the wet years that we’ve had, and this year has been fairly dry, fairly warm — so good weather for growing grapes,” he said.
Wine Tasmania’s Paul Smart says Tasmanian growers often adapt to the “whims of the weather”. (ABC News: Dane Meale)
Mr Smart said warm, dry conditions were needed to turn flowers into berries, which determined the tonnage for the season.
“Last December it was a great time to go to the beach. It was warm, it was dry, and we didn’t have those wet [conditions] of those preceding years where you didn’t want to go to the beach,” he said.
“If it’s good beach weather, you’re probably going to have a lot of wine.”
Tasmania is known for its sparkling wines, pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling. (ABC News: Sophie Jaggers)
Variable seasons ‘part and parcel’ of growing
A four-year period of below-average yields is not necessarily uncommon for Tasmanian vineyards.
Mr Smart said Tasmania’s conditions were “really variable” and required growers to adapt to the “whims of the weather”.
“It’s part and parcel of being in Tassie,” he said.
“You’ve got to be resilient, you’ve got to be adaptable and just work with what you’re given each year.
“We’re so reliant on the weather down here that it does make it a hard place to grow grapes.”
Tasmanian wine grape growers are looking forward to a bumper vintage. (ABC News: Sophie Jaggers)
Blessing and a curse
A plentiful harvest comes with its own challenges.
Warmer temperatures can hasten grape ripening, meaning vineyards need to move quickly to pick grapes and process them at their optimal quality.
“We haven’t had a fast vintage for a while, so it might be a bit of a surprise for our winemakers out there,” Mr Smart said.
“But so far so good. It’s still early. There’s lots of fermenters empty, we still have plenty of processing capacity.”
At Pooley Wines, winemakers are ready to process the influx of grapes.
“[Winemakers] are on stand-by for seven days a week at the moment, just ready to pick based on the increased warm temperature days,” Pooley Wines general manager Tristan Jones said.
“During the main period of the day, we’re on stand-by to see how quickly the sugars raise, and therefore when we’ve got to pick the fruit off quite quickly.”
Pooley Wines general manager Tristan Jones says despite the small window of time left to pick, his team is ready. (ABC News: Sophie Jaggers)
Smoke taint ‘always’ a cause for anxiety
Grape harvests will continue across the state until May, when final yields will be calculated and the success of the season measured.
Until then, growers are wary of the ever-present risk of smoke taint from bushfires and burn-offs, which could threaten the quality of grapes at their most critical time.
“There’s always anxiety. You’ve spent a whole 12 months putting investment into these grapes,” Mr Smart said.
“You get one chance of the year to pick these grapes and then to provide income for the next 12 months, so it’s a real critical time of the year.”
He said those who live near vineyards should communicate their burn-off plans.
The call comes as Tasmania begins its fuel reduction program for autumn, with reduction burns planned for much of the state as bushfire conditions ease.
“We’re just asking all our neighbours, if you’re going to light up, just talk with the vineyards nearby, have a conversation,” Mr Smart said.
Samantha Connew says smoke taint is always a worry for winemakers. (ABC News: Sophie Jaggers)
Samantha Connew owns Stargazer Wines, which is also in the Coal River Valley, and said smoke taint was “always” a cause for anxiety.
“January and February and thus far through March have been incredibly dry,” Ms Connew said.
“Certainly, around the Coal River Valley, which is always dry anyway, looking around, you can see how dry it is.
“It’s just a tinder box. We certainly don’t need any fires anytime soon.”
