‘People shop differently now’: Stall operators fear the future of markets

For Enzo Camuglia, spring in Australia always meant the arrival of crates of artichokes.

“My dad would slice them in half, slap on some garlic and parsley, drizzle olive oil, and grill them. It tasted like heaven,” he recalls.

Mr Camuglia runs a fresh produce stall at Preston Market in Melbourne’s north.

He took over the family business in 1985, continuing the tradition his father started after emigrating from Italy.

But now, like many vendors in Melbourne’s historic produce markets, he faces an uncertain future.

Business owners say changing consumer habits, rising costs, and an increase in theft are driving many family-run stalls to the brink.

“It’s not just the cost-of-living crisis; people want convenience,” says Oriana Camuglia, who helps run Camuglia & Sons. 

“We’ll likely have to close after we retire. Our kids don’t want to wake up at 3am, work all day, and barely scrape by.”

Research has shown young people these days prefer spur of the moment shopping and find supermarkets more convenient.

“For many, ‘shopping local’ just means going to the nearest supermarket,” says Shane Aarts, a produce stall owner of 12 years at Melbourne’s Queen Victoria Market.

“People shop differently now, convenience is everything.”

At the opposite stand, Yvette Vitalone from Benny’s Fruit, echoes the change in consumer buying patterns at the market.

“Younger shoppers don’t buy in bulk like our regulars used to,” she tells the ABC.

Family businesses on the edge

Market stalls, often run by the same families for generations, are also being squeezed by rising rents and dwindling foot traffic, operators say.

Jenny Luo, who runs Steve’s Farmer at Queen Victoria Market with her husband, has seen her five children turn away from the family business.

“With rising rent and hard work, none of our kids want to take over,” she says.

“Fewer people come since COVID because it’s just not convenient anymore.”

Ms Luo, who emigrated from Guangzhou, China, fears that without new generations stepping in, these markets could disappear.

“The older generation loves the market and conversation, but younger people don’t,” she adds.

“We’ve tried to sell the business, but no-one’s interested.” 

Dominic Mollica, who took over his family’s MNM Fruit shop at the Preston Market in 1993, is similarly pessimistic.

“Even if my children wanted to take over, I wouldn’t let them,” he says.

“The margins are too small, and politicians don’t seem to care about helping small businesses.”

But Tuo Zheng, who opened his fruit stall at Queen Victoria Market six years ago, is cautiously optimistic that customers will keep coming.

“They might only buy enough for a day or two, but they’ll still come,” he tells the ABC.

Theft rising with ‘people strapped for cash’

Compounding declining sales is the issue of theft, owners say.

Rosa Ansaldo, from Rospaul Fresh Fruit at Queen Victoria Market, says the last three months have been the worst she’s seen for stealing.

“People are definitely being more frugal, but I’ve caught more shoplifters putting expensive fruit into their bags and walking away.”

Mr Mollica has also seen an increase in theft.

“People are more strapped for cash, so they’re shoplifting more,” he says.

“They’ll scan something cheap like an onion and put more expensive fruit in the same bag. It’s happening up to 10 times a day.”

Frank Mathmann, an associate professor at Queensland University of Technology who focuses on consumer trends, says it’s clear that many people are struggling.

“Consumers know about price gouging by big supermarkets, but they take it out on the local vendor in front of them,” he says. 

“They don’t realise that rising fuel and rent prices also impact small businesses downstream.”

The Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) launched legal action against Woolworths and Coles last month for misleading consumers through discount pricing claims on hundreds of products.

Dr Mathmann also points out that many consumers are shifting to cheaper alternatives, such as frozen vegetables and carbohydrates.

Squeezed by rising costs

Market vendors say operating costs are another major problem. 

Stalls at Queen Victoria Market are facing a 4 per cent rent hike, and the closure of nearby parking facilities has made it harder for regular customers to visit.

“We rely on our regulars, but without convenient parking, we’re dead in the water,” Ms Ansaldo says.

Queen Victoria Market did not respond to questions about rent and parking.

At Preston Market, Mark Virgona of Sam Virgona and Sons says the cost of doing business has skyrocketed since he took over from his father two years ago.

“Everything is going up — electricity, rent, packaging, fuel for transport, fertilisers, the list goes on,” he says.

“If farmers raise their prices, we have to as well, but not too much, or we’ll lose customers to the supermarkets.

“Margins are already slim.”

Preston Market didn’t respond to requests for comment.

Hope for the future

Markets of a different kind — local farmers’ markets often set up in parks or schools — are also feeling the pinch of rising costs but in a different way.

“Instead of paying for high store-holder fees in municipal markets, farmers have to pay for fuel costs and packaging,” Jane Adams from the Australian Farmers Markets Association tells the ABC.

Despite the challenges, many of these markets are thriving because of their appeal to a specific clientele, vendors say.

“Our community is unique because people here really care about connecting with their farmers,” says Amanda Woollams, who manages Harvest Market Launceston.

“The markets aren’t just about buying food — they’re a destination where people socialise.”

Back in Melbourne, shop assistants like Timmy Singh, who works at Preston Market, remain hopeful.

“I love our local market. It’s important for the community and different cultures.

“But it is looking tougher for these markets to survive in the future.”

As Enzo Camuglia from Camuglia & Sons demonstrates the art of picking out a good watermelon by tapping it for an echo, he urges shoppers to appreciate small businesses.

“A lot of effort goes into running a fruit shop, but it’s pretty much a dying industry, you can’t just think they’ll always be there and take them for granted.”