The future of Victoria’s respected paddock-to-plate industry is in danger after multiple abattoirs banned the processing of animals for local farmers.
Key points:
- Paddock-to-plate producers fear for the future of the industry with many unable to process their animals
- The meat industry says abattoirs are filled to the brim and tough choices need to be made
- Melbourne restaurants are already noticing shortages
Producers across the state have reported being told by abattoirs that they would be limiting or no longer taking their animals, leaving many stranded and silenced in fear of immediate retribution from processors.
Farmers have been given no explanation, but the meat industry said there had been a huge influx of livestock entering the saleyards and abattoirs, causing major delays and staff shortages.
The flow-on of the decision means local meat is no longer available at many of the state’s restaurants and butchers.
No more goats
It took Drew Symons years to save up enough money to buy his farm in Eddington in Central Victoria, where he farms goats, sheep and cattle.
He has been selling his goat meat to butchers in Sydney and Melbourne for years, who then supply local restaurants.
He regularly sent animals to Hardwicks abattoir in Kyneton but was told at the 11th hour that they would no longer take his goats.
“I was told overnight and without reason that they would no longer take contract goats. It was ridiculous,” Mr Symons said.
“I’ve been trying to find a processor for two months now, to no avail.”
Mr Symons could send his animals to be processed three hours away in Wangaratta, but it’s not financially viable.
“I can’t then get my produce transported back to Central Victoria, and I don’t want my animals travelling long distances, it creates huge animal welfare concerns.
“There’s about 37 abattoirs in this state, why am I facing this problem?”
In September, Hardwicks also told producers it would no longer process organic animals.
Hardwicks has been contacted for comment.
Chooks off the menu
In Barham on the NSW-Victoria border, pig farmer Lauren Mathers recently expanded her business to chickens, but it has not been an easy transition.
She has been told by her abattoir in Melbourne that in three months’ time, they will no longer be able to process her meat chickens.
She wasn’t given a reason.
“So we’ll really have nowhere to process our chooks, there’s only two options in Victoria to get chickens processed,” Ms Mathers said.
“We might have to stop growing chickens in the meantime until we can find something else.
“I know other chicken growers that can’t take their birds there. He’s tried New South Wales and South Australia, all that driving you’re never going to make a return.”
Ms Mathers said it was unfair producers have to face these hurdles as they supply ethically-grown local produce for consumers.
“Local producers everywhere are continually losing access to abattoirs, and foreign companies are coming in and buying these abattoirs,” she said.
“The future is really uncertain for local producers.”
Melbourne restaurants make changes
The decision is already being felt in the Melbourne restaurant scene.
Ben Mitchell, the head chef at Palermo restaurant in Melbourne’s CBD, has been serving suckling pig for years but he has had to cross it off the menu.
“About two months ago we were completely unable to get any supply of suckling pigs, something that we’ve done here since opening,” Mr Mitchell said.
In August, Castle Estate abattoir in Victoria’s south-west stopped processing the state’s main supplier of suckling pig.
Producers have been unable to process the animal anywhere else in the state.
“That’s a supplier that we’ve got a really good relationship with and not being able to use their products has meant that we’re having to find alternatives that we’re not really keen on doing,” Mr Mitchell said.
“It’s disheartening really.
“I always prefer to work with the smaller guys, I think they do a better quality product and they really look after the welfare and care of the animal.”
In a response, Castle Estate said it was only temporarily not processing pork and hoped to find a solution in the coming weeks.
Industry says processors at capacity
Australian Meat Industry Council (AMIC) chief executive Patrick Hutchinson said abattoirs do not turn away contracted livestock without good reason.
“It’s not just about the dollars and cents, this is about ensuring that we can actually get things processed for the amount coming into the system,” Mr Hutchinson said.
“Nationally we’re at capacity. In 2022 [slaughter rates] were up 15 per cent on 2021, and we’re not 15 per cent above what we were in 2022.”
Huge numbers of livestock are currently going through saleyards and abattoirs, with a huge backlog of meat in cold stores, limited kill capacity at abattoirs, animals being sold off with drier conditions predicted ahead and a hit to confidence with a looming live export ban.
“It means sometimes you’re going to have to make some tough decisions.”
Mr Hutchinson said AMIC had been warning about capacity problems for years.
“Over the last 50 to 100 years, when we have a large influx of supply coming through the system, we do see that small lots are having to be moved because they do often need a specific way to be processed, manufactured and packed,” he said.
“I feel for producers … but we’re just going to have to get through this.”
Government aware of problem
Agriculture Victoria said it was aware of the challenges faced by some small Victorian producers in accessing abattoirs.
It said the meat processing sector played a crucial role in the overall success of Victoria’s livestock industry and it would continue to identify opportunities to support both industries.
But Mr Symons said change was needed before more producers left the industry.
“Regulators of meat need to step in and change the conditions so processors can do a percentage of service kills for their local producers.
“If things don’t change I’ll probably get out of goats, and others will be leaving the industry.”
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